Types of Pearls

October 3, 2022

Elegant, timeless and beautiful, pearls add a certain je ne sais quoi to any outfit. However, shopping for pearls for the first time can sometimes be confusing given the many varieties available on the market at a wide range of prices.

In this article, we will provide an overview of the main varieties of pearls to help you make an informed choice. We will also present some tips for recognizing the authenticity of a pearl.

Natural pearl and cultured pearl

There are two types of pearls: natural pearls and cultured pearls. Both are great options for fine jewelry, especially necklaces and earrings. Which type of pearl is best?

From a practical point of view, there is no difference between natural pearls and cultured pearls. They are identical in appearance and composition, the only difference being their origin and price.

The natural pearl

A natural pearl is formed when a small parasite enters and lodges in the mantle tissue of a mollusk. In response, the "invaded" tissue secretes a protective substance called nacre, a combination of crystalline and organic substances that accumulates and eventually transforms into a pearl after a few years.

Produced without human intervention, they are true results of nature, which makes them extremely rare and more expensive. If you are looking for pearl jewelry, it is very likely that you are considering purchasing pearls that fall into the second category, namely cultured pearls.

The cultured pearl

A cultured pearl is the result of a process whereby a pearl farmer induces the formation of a pearl by inserting an irritant into the mollusk and then "cultivating" the pearl. Cultured pearls are true pearls that were not formed by accident of nature.

Most pearls sold today are cultured. The main varieties of cultured pearls we discuss in this article are freshwater pearls, Tahitian pearls, South Sea pearls, and Akoya pearls.

The freshwater pearl

Made entirely of layers of nacre (without a nucleus), freshwater pearls come from oysters that mature in non-salty water (from lakes or ponds, as opposed to salty sea water). Their production is less expensive, faster and China produces up to 1,500 tons of them per year.

Over the last two decades, their quality has improved considerably for several reasons, but mainly because in the mid-1990s, the pearl industry changed the type of mussels it used and reduced the number of grafts inserted into the mussel, and therefore increased the number of pearls produced.

Today, freshwater pearls are a favorite among jewelry designers due to their lower cost, higher quality, and availability. These pearls come from China and are available in a wide range of colors, shapes, and pearl sizes. They can naturally be produced in pastel shades of pink, lavender, and peach, and are also often dyed in brighter colors. They can reach a size of 15 millimeters.

The pearl of Tahiti

Tahitian pearls are the only pearls in the world that are naturally black. Rare, exotic and luxurious, Tahitian pearls are produced by the Pinctada margaritifera oyster, native to Tahiti and the islands of French Polynesia. These saltwater oysters can grow to the size of a dinner plate, producing pearls that range in size from 8 to 18 mm. Tahitian pearls come in a wide range of colors, from silver to deep black, including shades of green, blue and peacock. It typically takes 4 to 5 years for a Tahitian pearl to grow.

The pearl of the South Seas

The largest pearls on the market are South Sea pearls, which are grown along the northern coast of Australia. They come in beautiful shades of gold and white, and can reach up to 20mm in diameter. The South Sea pearl oyster can only receive one implant at a time and can take 2 to 6 years to create its pearl, making this pearl rarer and more expensive.

Akoya pearls

This type of pearl is grown in China, Japan, and Vietnam. They are perfectly round, vary in colors from white, cream, and yellow, and are very shiny. When you picture pearls in your mind, this is probably the type you imagine. They can range in size from two to nine millimeters and can take anywhere from 8 months to 2 years to grow.

Tips to know if a pearl is real or fake

The easiest way to tell if a pearl is genuine is to touch it. When you touch a real pearl, it feels cold and warms up when worn. Fake pearls feel warm on the temple and have no surface defects since they are machine-made.

A natural pearl has a unique weight. Fakes may have a ridiculously low weight or an exaggerated weight.

Real pearls come in different sizes and shapes, unlike counterfeits which are one size and shape.

A second quick tip to recognize real pearls is to observe the ability of genuine pearls to reflect light, unlike imitations which have no reflective ability.

You can also recognize the real appearance of a pearl by gently rubbing it on a tooth. If the pearl is slippery, it means that the pearl is fake. However, if you feel some roughness or squeaking, it means that you are in the presence of a real pearl.

Finally, if you rub two pearls together, if you detect friction, they are real pearls. Same thing if you end up with a little mother-of-pearl on your fingers.

From delicacy and finesse to boldness and brilliance, pearls are suitable for all occasions. In this article we have seen that there are two types of pearls, namely the natural pearl and the cultured pearl, which itself comes in several varieties.

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